Dry skin is one of the most common skin complaints dermatologists see, especially during colder months or in dry climates. Dry skin that feels tight, rough, itchy, or flaky happens when your skin can no longer hold onto moisture.
To treat and prevent dry skin, you need products that work to restore this moisture. Knowing which ingredients actually help this process can make it much easier to choose products that relieve dryness instead of making it worse.
How Dry Skin Happens
Your skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin. Its job is to lock moisture in and keep irritants out. When that barrier gets damaged, water escapes more easily and your skin can't stay hydrated.
Cold weather, dry indoor air, hot showers, aging skin, and harsh soaps can all weaken the skin barrier and cause or worsen dryness.
"Dry skin is from a combination of barrier impairment and excess water loss," says Nicole Negbenebor, MD, a dermatologist at University of Iowa Health Care. "Dry skin products are attempting to restore the moisture balance that was lost."
These products aim to hydrate, reduce water loss, and repair your skin barrier. When that barrier is compromised, even the best moisturizer won't work as well unless it contains the right mix of ingredients.
Ingredients That Help Relieve Dry Skin
When you read a product label, look for certain ingredients that are especially helpful for dry skin.
"Products for dry skin use these ingredients to help restore the skin barrier, reduce the loss of water from the skin, and replenish hydration," says Negbenebor.
These ingredients all fall into one large category called emollients. Emollients form a film on your skin's outer layer. They can both treat and help prevent dry skin by working to:
- Draw moisture to your skin
- Prevent the loss of moisture in your skin
- Soften scaling or peeling skin
- Soothe irritated or dry skin
Emollients have two main groups:
Occlusives. These ingredients "occlude," or block, moisture from leaving. They don't add moisture to your skin, just keep existing moisture from escaping. Occlusives don't dissolve in water and are typically greasy.
They include:
- Petroleum jelly (petrolatum)
- Dimethicone
- Mineral oil
- Lanolin
- Liquid paraffin
Humectants. Humectants draw water into the outer layer of your skin so you get more moisture. They aren't as greasy as occlusives and can wash off in water.
They include:
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic acid
- Propylene glycol
- Urea
Another important ingredient that helps seal in moisture is ceramides. Ceramides are lipids that you have naturally in your skin. They act like grout, holding the parts of your skin barrier together. Some moisturizers also include lab-made ceramides in their ingredients.
When and how to apply
You can maximize the benefit of your moisturizers by paying attention to the way you use them.
"I often suggest to bathe or shower and then lock in the moisture afterwards with a moisturizing product," says Negbenebor. Applying moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp helps trap water before it evaporates.
Use creams or ointments rather than lotions for dry skin, because thicker products do a better job of preventing moisture loss.
Ingredients to Avoid With Dry Skin
It's just as important to stay away from some ingredients as it is to include others. Some ingredients can actively make dry skin worse, especially if your skin barrier is already damaged.
"[Certain] ingredients can worsen dryness and irritation, while also stripping the skin of its moisture balance," says Negbenebor.
Common ingredients to watch out for include:
- Alcohol. It can dry and irritate skin.
- Fragrance or perfume. Opt for fragrance-free, since fragrance is a common trigger for irritation.
- Strong exfoliating acids. One example is alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which can strip moisture from your skin.
- Sulfates and harsh soaps. These remove your skin's natural oils.
Smart Practices for Dry Skin Relief
Moisturizer is important, but daily habits also play a big role in how dry your skin feels. Some simple ways you can make a difference is by evaluating the spaces you're in most during the day and your water intake.
"Use a humidifier inside the house in the winter, and stay well hydrated throughout the day," Negbenebor says. She also recommends protecting your skin from cold air when you're outside with scarves, gloves, and layers.
Also key: your shower patterns. How you wash your skin matters.
- Avoid hot water
- Keep showers or baths short
- Use only gentle soaps
- Pat your skin dry instead of rubbing
These small changes can make a noticeable difference, especially when paired with the right products.
When to See a Doctor
For many people, dry skin improves with consistent moisturizing and gentle care. But sometimes, dryness can be a sign of a skin condition.
"If it seems that your dry skin isn't improving with the frequent application of a moisturizer, then you may want to come to the dermatologist to be assessed for eczema or other skin conditions," says Negbenebor.
Your dermatologist may decide you need prescription treatment or another approach.
